DINING WITH THE SAINTS & EMPERORS
Menu & Recipes
ORÉKTIKA ~ APPETIZERS
Pomegranate Julep
Byzantine Pretzel Bread
Appetizer Platter
Stuffed Grape Leaves (Dolmades)
Yogurt Cucumber Sauce (Tzatziki)
KYRIO PIATO ~ MAIN COURSE
Spongy Omelet (Sphoungata)
Lamb Dumplings (Yuvarelakia)
Salmon with Mustard Sauce
Root Vegetable Purée
Mustard Greens (Napis)
EPIDÓRPIO ~ DESSERTS
Grape Spoon Sweets
Rice Pudding
Honey Cakes
BYZANTINE “PRETZEL” BREAD
Among many popular bread types in Byzantine bakeries was one that resembled a pretzel, its dough rolled and shaped into a circle. This recipe is devised in such a way as to replicate the lacy discs on the table in the fourteenth century fresco shown below. presuming those pretzel-like circles are the bread accompanying the “divine wine” in this Byzantine version of The Marriage at Cana.
INGREDIENTS:
¾ cup (180 ml) warm water
1 teaspoon granulated sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon (1/8 oz /3.5 g) active dry yeast (half a ¼ oz/7 g envelope)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
2 cups (240 g) all-purpose flour, plus more as needed
Oil for the bowl and baking sheet
PROCEDURE:
1. In a small bowl, whisk together the warm water, sugar, and salt. Sprinkle the yeast on top and let it stand until slightly foamy, about 5 minutes.
2. When the mixture is slightly foamy, stir in the melted butter, then add the flour and mix well to form a ball of dough.
3. On a clean work surface, knead the dough for about 5 minutes, adding flour as needed, until springy.
4. Put the dough in a lightly oiled bowl and cover the bowl with plastic wrap. Let the dough rise in a warm place until doubled in volume, about 50 minutes.
5. While the dough is rising, line a large baking sheet with parchment paper and lightly brush the paper with oil. Preheat the oven to 450°F (230°C).
6. When the dough has risen, divide it into six equal portions; set them aside.
7. Take one portion and divide it in half. On a floured work surface, use your hands to roll each half into an 18 inch (46 cm) long rope. Fold one rope into a circle, gently pressing the ends to seal them together. Cut the other rope into four equal pieces. Attach two pieces to the circle’s bottom half so they reach towards the top half, but don’t yet connect them to the top. Moving left to right, lattice-weave the remaining two pieces over and under the first two. Once the lattice is complete, press all the ends into the edge of the circle to seal them together.
8. Repeat with the remaining five portions of dough to create six pretzels.
9. Gently arrange the pretzels on the prepared baking sheet. Bake until golden brown, 12 to 14 minutes. Let the pretzels cool for at least 5 minutes before serving.
Makes 6 pretzels
LAMB DUMPLINGS ~ YUVARELAKIA
This dish belongs to both Greek and Turkish cuisine today; yuvarlak means “round” in Turkish, and in Greece it is made with beef and known as youvarlakia. But its origins are Byzantine, from a time and place where lamb was more widely consumed than beef. A recipe such as this would have made good use of trimmed bits of meat not otherwise roasted.
INGREDIENTS:
For the lamb dumplings
1 pound (455 g) ground lamb
1 medium onion, grated or finely chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
½ cup (100 g) pearl barley, coarsely chopped in blender or food processor
1 egg, lightly beaten
¼ cup (15 g) finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley
¼ cup (15 g) finely chopped fresh mint
1 tablespoon dried oregano
½ teaspoon salt
For the sauce
3 cups (720 ml) vegetable broth
½ medium onion, roughly chopped
1 carrot, roughly chopped
1 celery rib, roughly chopped
Juice of 1 lemon
PROCEDURE:
1. To make the lamb dumplings, in a large bowl, combine the lamb, onion, garlic, pearl barley, egg, parsley, mint, oregano, and salt. Using clean hands, gently but thoroughly combine the ingredients.
2. With wet, clean hands, roll the lamb mixture into walnut-size egg or barrel-shaped dumplings, pressing gently so everything adheres to the rounded shape. Set the dumplings on a plate and refrigerate for about 15 minutes.
3. To make the sauce, in a large pan, bring the broth, onion, carrot, and celery to a boil.
4. Using a slotted spoon, carefully place the lamb dumplings into the boiling broth, then cover, lower the heat, and simmer gently for 30 minutes.
5. Using the slotted spoon, transfer the dumplings from the broth to a deep serving platter. Transfer the broth and vegetables to a blender or food processor and purée until smooth. Add the lemon juice.
6. Pour the sauce over the dumplings and serve hot.
ROOT VEGETABLE PURÉE
Wild varieties of parsnips and carrots were known in the ancient world, used mostly for medicinal applications. The orange carrot so familiar today was native to an area near the Black Sea. Domesticated by the sixth century, this carrot became a mainstay of vegetable gardens throughout Byzantium and later, Europe.
This simple recipe reflects the fact that vegetables were often boiled and then puréed. It was suggested that they be spiced according to seasonal or humor-related preferences. Honey was a common addition to root vegetable purées since early carrots were apparently less sweet than those that have evolved over time.
This puréed treat was said in an anonymous thirteenth century Andalusian cookbook to enhance lovemaking and “increase desire beautifully.” It seems the aphrodisiac qualities of these common root vegetables as observed by the ancients still applied well into the Byzantine era.
INGREDIENTS:
8 ounces (230 g) carrots, peeled and roughly chopped
8 ounces (230 g) parsnips, peeled and roughly chopped
¼ cup (85 g) honey
1 tablespoon peeled and finely chopped fresh ginger
½ teaspoon ground cloves
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
PROCEDURE:
1. In a medium saucepan, bring 2 cups (480 ml) of water to a boil. Add the carrots and parsnips and cook for about 10 minutes, or until quite soft. Drain the vegetables, reserving about ½ cup (120 ml) of the liquid to add to the purée if needed.
2. Transfer the vegetables to a blender or food processor. Add the honey, ginger, and cloves and blend, gradually adding a little of the reserved cooking water as needed to create a smooth purée. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer to a serving bowl and serve hot.
Serves 6-8
GRAPE SPOON SWEETS
Another of the delicacies available to diners in Constantinople was “spoon sweets.” These slightly chewy jam-like bites, made from fresh fruit and sugar, were unknown in the west during the Byzantine era, as unknown as the individual serving spoons they graced. They were typically served in a communal bowl from which each diner scooped one heaping spoonful. Jars of this delicacy were among the souvenirs brought home by medieval visitors and helped to fuel the western European sweet tooth that created the rise in import and production of sugar.
Now a staple of Greek cuisine and served in individual bowls, “spoon sweets” are still the official sweet of the Patriarchate of Constantinople
INGREDIENTS:
1½ pounds (680 g) seedless table grapes, such as Thompson or red flame
1 cup (200 g) granulated sugar
¼ cup (60 ml) fresh lemon juice
PROCEDURE:
1. Pluck the grapes from the stems; rinse the grapes and set aside in a colander to drain.
2. Attach a candy thermometer to the side of a heavy large pan. Add the sugar, lemon juice, and 1 cup (240 ml) of water and bring to boil. Add the grapes and return to an active boil, then lower the heat, partially cover, and simmer gently for 10 minutes.
3. Use a slotted spoon to transfer the grapes to a colander set over a bowl to collect any juices.
4. Continue simmering the liquid, adding any grape juice as it collects under the colander, for 25 to 30 minutes, or until the liquid is thick and the candy thermometer registers 230°F (110°C).
5. Return the grapes, along with any additional juices, to the pan. Cover and simmer, stirring occasionally, for about 20 minutes, or until thick and syrupy. Remove from the heat and let it cool to room temperature.
6. Serve in small dishes with individual spoons or in a communal bowl from which each diner scoops a single spoonful.
Serves 10-12