DINING DURING THE REIGN OF LOUIS XIV ~ A Taste for Luxury

By the 16th century France had emerged as a sovereign nation, its centralized monarchy having established rule over smaller regional powers in the Frankish feudal patchwork. This stood in contrast to the Italian peninsula which still consisted of independent city-states, kingdoms and republics vying for power and protection from one another - yet unified in their Catholic faith, pride of classical ancestry and artistic creativity.

During the height of the Renaissance the influence of Italian cultural dominance was felt throughout Europe. Visitors to the peninsula were impressed with the artistry they encountered there in all regions and artforms. Many northern knights resented being seen as warring “barbarians” and returned home desiring to lay down arms and to live and eat well, surrounded by luxurious possessions, like the Italian nobility. King Francis I brought Leonardo da Vinci and other Italian artists into his court to add to its splendor, and later married off his son Henry II to Caterina de Medici in a diplomatic arrangement that would bring even more Italian influence into France, including the introduction of many fruits and vegetables not formerly grown there.  

This French/Italian cultural interaction continued into the next generation with the arrival of yet another Medici bride, Maria de Medici, and the artistic improvements with her husband, King Henry IV, brought forth added significantly to the culture and grandeur of Paris. The King initiated a massive reconstruction project adding bridges, gardens and palaces to the city, and invited many foreign artists and artisans to set up shop in the galleries beneath the expanded Louvre Palace. Paris of the 17th century was a bustling city with a steadily growing population, a rising bourgeoisie, and a strong aristocratic class. 

It was into this world of art and power that Louis Dieudonné was born, first son and so-named “God-given” to his royal parents. Early in his 72-year reign (1643-1715) as King of France, Louis XIV proclaimed the desire to make his nation the leader in political and military might as well as in arts patronage and production. He specifically wished to surpass Italy in this and make France the undisputed cultural and artistic trendsetter in Europe. Building upon the creative groundwork of his ancestors, Louis added tapestry and furniture-making to the royal manufactories, lured away glassmakers from Venice, and opened academies for music and ballet. The surviving tapestries, paintings, decorative arts and architecture, plus the music, dance, theatrical productions and literary works produced during his reign are testament to his success in achieving this lofty goal. The torch had been passed, and Italy would not regain its former Renaissance role as artistic and cultural center of Europe.

It is no surprise that another creative expression to excel during Louis XIV’s reign was that of the culinary arts. The food of the French court prior to this period had largely mirrored court cuisine throughout Europe with its highly spiced, complex dishes. But a culinary shift was already underway that can best be summarized as a “return to nature” in its emphasis on appreciating the unique flavor of each food item rather than rendering it unrecognizable through overcooking and over-spicing. This was not unlike what had occurred in Italy a century or so before, but with a decidedly French twist. New cookbooks offered instruction on how to best enhance each ingredient through refined cooking methods and complementary flavors and began to describe the delicate sauces that would eventually define modern French cooking. Trained chefs could now be hired to create a smaller version of a court banquet in a private home, and the intimate dinner party became fashionable.

At the same time, the royal court was reaching new heights in its dining culture. In 1682 Louis XIV moved his permanent residence from Paris to his country estate, Versailles, where with the help of artistic advisors he set the stage for an unprecedented display of spectacular food and production-laden festivities. He also established a strict protocol for his noble courtiers to follow that would keep them ever engaged in serving him and amusing themselves. Much of this revolved around daily meals and their participation in watching him dine before availing themselves of the same delicious fare. 

The meal herein devised to celebrate the beginnings of this esteemed cuisine is meant to replicate a dinner party in a 17th century Parisian townhouse. Inspired by recipes from the period cooking manuals, the meal follows the typical succession of courses with multiple offerings per course that would have been placed simultaneously in an orderly fashion around the table center. Family style in concept, this method of dining was known at the time as “service à la française.”  The following meal can be arranged with entrée and potage offerings together on the table as the first course, then cleared to bring multiple platters for main and side dishes as a second course, and finally cleared to put out the dessert offerings. Alternatively, put everything out on a separate buffet table where guests can serve themselves. Do be sure to accompany this meal with fine French wines and champagne, most appreciated in the 17th century, as well as some good crusty French bread.

~ BON APPETIT!